COFFEE, METAPHOR FOR DEMOCRACY
There is no reason a cup of joe should be more than
$1, and yet we are totally comfortable with the increased costs that have
accompanied coffee’s reascension. Is that because post-recession, it’s easier
to distinguish your values and beliefs with something material, like a cup of
coffee? Or we believe that something brought to market under better conditions
is worth paying a bit more for? Regardless of the reasons underpinning the
financials of coffee, Locol’s $1 cup represents a paradigm shift and a return
to a mean—perhaps it is possible to have both sustainably raised coffee that
tastes delicious.
Oliver Strand of the New York Times recently
reported on Locol’s brews, and why the company is so adamant in redefining our
centuries-old coffee culture:
“There’s an extreme democratization that I really
want to make happen in coffee,” said Tony Konecny, the head of Locol’s coffee
operation, who goes by Tonx. Good coffee, he said, should be brought to a broad
audience, not just a “self-selecting group” of epicures.
Mr. Konecny’s ambitions for Yes Plz go beyond
selling a high-quality cup of coffee at that magic price point, though he knows
that it sends a powerful message. What he wants to do is shift the very nature
of coffee culture. He has no patience for what he calls the “culinary
burlesque” of pour-over bars, with their solemn baristas and potted succulents.
“It’s dress-up,” he said.
Those settings and presentations, he said, send the
wrong message: that good coffee must also be expensive and fetishized. “We have
become overly focused on this ingredient preciousness, single-origin
puritanism,” he said. As a result, he added, coffee just keeps getting “fancier
and fancier.”
We agree with the author that the nectar of the
gods should be within reach of the common tao.
THREE COFFEE POEMS
Photo courtesy of Nestle
ReplyDeletePhoto link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/nestle/16978293245
Gonzalinho